Sri Lanka's ancient cities are open-air galleries. Over more than two thousand years, its sculptors, painters and craftsmen created works of extraordinary skill, many of which you can still see where they were made.
The moonstone: a step into another world
At the entrance of many ancient Sri Lankan buildings lies a semicircular carved stone known as a moonstone (sandakada pahana). The finest examples, from the Anuradhapura period, are carved in rings of flames, animals, foliage and geese around a central lotus. They are often read as a symbolic journey from worldly life towards enlightenment, a beautiful thing to step across on the way into a shrine.
Buddhas carved with serenity
The Samadhi Buddha of Anuradhapura, seated in deep meditation, is admired across the Buddhist world for its calm expression. At Polonnaruwa, the Gal Vihara shows the skill of 12th-century sculptors, who carved standing, seated and reclining Buddha figures from one granite outcrop. Further south, the giant Avukana standing Buddha rises some 12 metres, still watching over the countryside.
The painted maidens of Sigiriya
Halfway up the rock of Sigiriya, sheltered in a pocket of the cliff, are the famous frescoes of the late 5th century: graceful women carrying flowers, painted in rich ochres and greens. Beyond them runs the Mirror Wall, once polished so smoothly the king could see his reflection. Over the following centuries visitors scratched poems onto it, praising the painted maidens. These verses are some of the earliest examples of written Sinhala poetry.
Lovers, elephants and guardian stones
At Isurumuniya temple in Anuradhapura, look for the delicate carving often called the "Isurumuniya Lovers", and for elephants carved into the rock beside the pond. Throughout the ancient cities you will also find guardstones flanking temple steps, carved with protective deities and overflowing pots of plenty.
Bronzes and the great stupas
Sri Lankan metalworkers produced exceptional bronze statues of Buddhas, bodhisattvas and Hindu deities. Some are displayed in the island's museums, and others are treasured in collections abroad. The great stupas, from the Ruwanwelisaya to the Jetavanaramaya, are artefacts on a monumental scale: engineering achievements built of millions of bricks more than two thousand years ago.
Where to see Sri Lanka's treasures
- Colombo National Museum, the island's largest museum, with royal regalia, sculpture and bronzes.
- Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, where the archaeological museums complement the ruins.
- Sigiriya Museum at the foot of the rock.
- Kandy, with museums in the Temple of the Tooth complex.
Take your time, hire a knowledgeable local guide, and these stones will tell you stories you will not forget.