Few places on earth can tell their own story as far back as Sri Lanka. The island's ancient chronicles, written by Buddhist monks and kept for centuries, trace its recorded history back more than 2,500 years, to the arrival of Prince Vijaya in the 6th century BCE. Walk through its ruined cities today and that history is not behind glass: it is still part of daily life, with pilgrims in white offering flowers at monuments that have been places of worship for over two millennia.
Anuradhapura: the first great capital
For roughly 1,400 years, Anuradhapura was the heart of Sri Lankan civilisation. Buddhism reached the island in the 3rd century BCE, and with it came a sapling of the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. That tree, the Sri Maha Bodhi, still grows in Anuradhapura and is honoured as one of the oldest living trees planted by humans with a recorded history.
Around it rose some of the largest structures of the ancient world. The Ruwanwelisaya stupa gleams white against the sky, and the brick-built Jetavanaramaya was, when completed, among the tallest buildings anywhere on earth. Just as impressive are the ancient reservoirs, or wewa, engineered to store monsoon rain for the dry season. Many still irrigate rice fields today.
Stay tip: base yourself in Anuradhapura for two nights and explore the sacred city by bicycle in the cool of the early morning.
Polonnaruwa: the medieval masterpiece
When the capital moved to Polonnaruwa in the 11th century, its kings built a compact city of palaces, audience halls and monasteries beside the vast Parakrama Samudra reservoir. The highlight is the Gal Vihara, where four images of the Buddha are carved from a single granite face, including a serene reclining figure some 14 metres long.
Sigiriya: the fortress in the sky
Rising almost 200 metres above the jungle, Sigiriya is the most dramatic sight on the island. In the 5th century King Kashyapa turned this rock into a royal citadel, with water gardens at its feet, painted maidens on its walls and a palace on its summit. Climb through the great lion's paws at dawn, before the heat, and the view over the plains is unforgettable.
Dambulla, Kandy and Galle
Nearby, the Dambulla cave temple shelters more than 150 Buddha images under ceilings covered in paintings. In the hills, Kandy, the last royal capital, is home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Sri Lanka's most revered shrine. And on the south coast, Galle Fort tells a later chapter of the story, with Portuguese, Dutch and British influences layered within its sea walls.
Eight World Heritage Sites on one island
Sri Lanka has eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the sacred cities of Anuradhapura and Kandy, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, the Golden Temple of Dambulla, the Old Town of Galle and its fortifications, the Sinharaja Forest Reserve and the Central Highlands. The first five lie within a few hours of each other in what is known as the Cultural Triangle.
Plan your heritage journey
Allow at least four or five days for the Cultural Triangle, then continue to Kandy and the hill country. Visit temples in light clothing that covers your shoulders and knees, and be ready to remove your shoes and hat. Then simply take your time: in Sri Lanka, history is best enjoyed slowly.